Skincare 101

It is never too late to start taking care of your skin. A good skincare routine will not only make your skin look better but you will feel better too. Besides your confidence and self satisfaction growing from seeing tangible results reflecting at you when you look in the mirror every morning, the ritual of your morning and night routine is also very satisfying. This is time dedicated to you, you are doing something for yourself. Patting layers of fragrant toners, serums and creams can be deeply satisfying and relaxing. It does not have to be a chore, it can be a pleasurable experience.
So if you have been a bad girl or a boy (boys need skincare too), went to bed without removing makeup, thought your foundation is enough of a sun protection or if you did not use any skin care at all (gasp) this is for you. I am taking it back to basics. A simple routine step by step.


1. Double cleanse in the evening and wash your face in the morning

Some people like to wash their face in the morning just with water but I personally prefer to use a low pH cleanser to wash off the dead skin cells, sebum and whatever is left of last night's skincare on my face and start the morning with a clean slate. Now, for the evening routine, if you wear makeup and/or sunscreen double cleanse is a must. The best way to dissolve makeup and daily grime is by using an oil based cleanser. This removes all the make up and dirt from your skin and then you can go in with a low pH foaming cleanser, gel cleanser or cream cleanser to thoroughly clean your skin. There is some debate going on weather low pH is really necessary in a second cleanser. I will just state that I am a firm believer in benefits of low pH in a second cleanser because our skin is slightly acidic and keeping it in that state makes perfect sense to me.

Products I would recommend:
Oil based cleanser/first cleanser: Heimish All Clean Balm, illi Total Aging Care Cleansing Oil
Second cleanser: COSRX Low pH Good Morning Cleanser, or if you want a dash of luxury Sulwhasoo Snowise EX cleansing Foam


2. Toning the Asian beauty way

If you have never encountered Asian toners you are in for a surprise. They are nothing like what we are used to in western toners that are usually astringent and are just part of your cleansing. Asian toners also known as skins or boosters are designed to add moisture to your skin and to increase penetration of products that follow. Depending on your skin type and needs you can go with very rich, moisturizing toner like pictured Innisfree Ginger Oil Skin or combine it with cleansing and use Son & Park Beauty Water - a lightly moisturising cleansing water/toner hybrid. I hate using moisturizing toners on cotton pads because it just seems such a waste of a product, so I pour some in the palm of my hand and pat it on my face. 

Products I would recommend:
Enprani Dear by Moistfull Booskin Toner, COSRX Centella Water Alcohol-Free Toner, KLAIRS Supple Preparation Facial Toner 



3. The concentrated care - essence/serum/ampoule

These are products with higher concentration of beneficial ingredients and their purpose is to target specific issues, such as hyperpigmentation, dullness, signs of aging, dryness or acne.You can have more than one in your routine and layer them according to thickness. From thinnest consistency to more dense. 

Products I would recommend:
COSRX Advanced Snail Mucin Power Essence, Innisfree Jeju Lava Seawater Essence and more luxurious ones Su:m 37 Secret Essence, Sulwhasoo First Care Activating Serum.


4. An occlusive layer - cream or an emulsion/lotion

They tend to be moisturizing and occlusive so that all the goodies and moisture we patted into our skin in the form of essences, serums and such does not evaporate. People with oily skin and those who live in very hot and humid climates might enjoy emulsions while those that have very dry skin can layer emulsions under creams for added moisture. 

Products I would recommend:
COSRX Oil-free Ultra-moisturizing Lotion - love this in summer, Banila and co. Miss Flower and Mr Honey Cream - great night time cream or even day cream for those with very dry skin or during very cold weather. Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream - my favorite cream ever.


5. Last but in no way the least step in your morning routine: sunscreen

Sunscreen should always be (no matter if it is summer or winter) the last step of your morning skincare routine. The best thing you can do for your skin is to start wearing sunscreen. Sun is the biggest culprit for signs of premature ageing and various forms of sun damage like hyperpigmentation. More often than not sunscreens we are used to feel heavy and clogging and they leave this ghostly white cast on your skin so many avoid them. Asian sunscreens have gone the furthest in the terms of texture and comfortable wearability on skin. They have no white cast and are undetectable on skin. Sunscreen should have SPF of 30 or above, and the amount you need for your face alone to be effective is a good 1/2 teaspoon. It is recommended to wait for at least 15 minutes after applying sunscreen before going out into the sun. If you are going to spend your day mostly in the office/indoors  then morning application should be enough to get you home, however if you are out and about in the sun you will need to reapply sunscreen often (every two hours). It is recommended to wait 3-5 minutes after applying sunscreen before applying your makeup. Gentle application of foundation without heavy blending is recommended. That is why cushion foundations are ideal when wearing sunscreen as their patting application that does not disturb the sunscreen underneath. And no, the sunscreen in your foundation is not enough. Not even close. Wear proper sunscreen!

Products I would recommend:
Biore UV Aqua Rich Watery Essence, A'Pieu Pure Block Natural Daily Sun Cream, COSRX Aloe Soothing Sun Cream

All about AHA

I was talking acids with friends, as one does. So I decided to gather information on AHA in one place so they can be informed of the benefits of this amazing active. Use of AHA in cosmetics is not a new thing. We all have heard how Cleopatra liked to take baths in donkey milk. I bet that thing soured before you could blink an eye and she enjoyed the benefits of lactic acid, a type of AHA, that made her skin smoother, brighter and more youthful. So if Cleo reaped benefits of AHA so can we.

My AHA wardrobe

Alpha hydroxy acids aka AHA are a group of natural acids found in foods. Alpha hydroxy acids include:

• glycolic acid (found in sugar cane), most popular and widely used AHA as it has the smallest molecule and thus can penetrate deeper into skin
• lactic acid (found in sour milk)- great choice for people who find glycolic acid too harsh, as lactic acid is it gentler sister
• citric acid (found in citrus fruits)
• malic acid (found in apples)
• tartaric acid (found in grapes)

Various alpha hydroxy acids are applied to the skin for their moisturizing and exfoliating properties, for treating acne and improving the appearance of acne scars, for improving the appearance of photo-aged skin, and firming and smoothing skin. They are used mainly as chemical exfoliators but also as humectant moisturizers (AHAs attract water to skin).

AHAs exfoliate the skin by promoting keratolysis. Keratolysis is the process of breaking down the layer of dead skin cells that make up the outer layer of the skin (stratum corneum,). Result is a thinner layer of dead skin cells, which gives a brighter, younger-looking appearance to the skin. However, with use of alpha hydroxy acid product, you make your skin more vulnerable to damage from the sun (by removing the top layer of dead skin cells). That is why if you use an AHA product, you should use a high-quality sunscreen to protect your skin from the sun as  AHA products can increase your sensitivity to the sun by as much as 50% and AHA has photosensitivity effects for up to a week (according to research for 10% AHA product). So the time of day you use your AHA really makes no difference. I cannot stress enough how important is the sunscreen when using AHAs (BHA, vitamin c and retinoids too). What is the point of fighting sun damage and ageing signs with AHA if you are just going to leave your skin more vulnerable to sun damage by skipping SPF. If you cannot commit yourself to regular and avid use of sunscreen than AHAs are not for you.

AHA is a pH sensitive product which means that it is more effective in an acidic product with a low pH. The higher the pH, the less effective it is. Chemical exfoliants work best at a low pH, with the recommended range for USA between 3 and about 4.5. 

So to break it down how should you use your AHA:

Apply after cleansing your skin with low pH cleanser or use an acidic toner to lower your skin pH. Why? As stated, AHAs are pH depended and they will work better in acidic environment, meaning if your skin is on acidic side instead of alkaline side of things AHA will have more time to exfoliate and do its thing instead of wasting that time to lower your skin pH. Once applied it takes about 30 minutes for its pH to neutralize after which it becomes ineffective. It is recommended to wait for 20-30 minutes after applying AHA to apply another, higher-pH product. Common sense tells you if we apply a higher pH product immediately after a chemical exfoliant we will likely shorten its effective time thus giving us lesser results.

If you’ve never used AHA before or if you have sensitive skin, introduce it to your skincare routine slowly. Use it once a day every three days for a couple of weeks and then go to every other day for a couple of weeks before you move to daily use (if you wish and if your skin can take it). Overuse can result in irritated or over exfoliated skin (skin will look shiny, sudden breakouts that last for more than two weeks, red, reactive, itchy, burning skin). If this happens reduce the frequency of use or even stop for a bit and use gentle products to rebuild your damaged skin’s barrier.

My AHA wardrobe depicted in the photo:

ALPHA-H Liquid Gold – My first ever AHA product. It contains 5% glycolic acid and Licorice Extract with pH of 2.5. Although it has the smallest percentage of glycolic acid of all my products it also has the lowest pH which means this packs quite a punch.

Ingredients: Aqua, Alcohol Denat., Glycerin, Hydrolysed Silk, Glycolic Acid, Potassium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Extract.

Instructions state that it can be used every other day and the best way to use it is to apply it on cleansed skin and leave it to do its thing until morning. It is perfect for those days when you feel lazy and do not want to do your 10+ steps night routine. I like to use it when my skin is being a bit of a bitch aka hormonal. It is easy to use but rather pricey and formula contains alcohol which does not bother me but might bother those with alcohol sensitivity.

Can be purchased at cult beauty, beauty bay, lookfantastic  and other stockists.

COSRX AHA 7 Whitehead Power Liquid – Korean product with 7% of glycolic acid, with official pH level of 4, however my pH strips show its level to be a bit above pH 3. Very affordable.

Ingredients: Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycolic Acid, Niacinamide, Sodium Hydroxide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Panthenol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Xanthan Gum, Ethyl Hexanediol

Use it after cleansing or after acidic toner and wait 20-30 minutes before applying anything else. Can be purchased at Korean beauty shops Jolse and Wishtrend 

Bravura London GLYCOLIC ACID 10% (INFUSED WITH LAVENDER) – affordable but effective product with pH of 3, and easy to order online if you live in Europe. It can be used 3-4 times a week. It is a chemical peal and should be left on the skin 5-15 minutes as per instructions.

Ingredients: Distilled Water, Lavender Water, Glycolic Acid, Glycerin, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Hydroxide, Hydroxyethyl Cellulose.

Can be purchased at Bravura London

Bravura London 10% LACTIC ACID (INFUSED WITH ROSE) –affordable milder exfoliator than glycolic acid one, it has pH of 3.75. This is a good choice if you suffer with dry or dehydrated skin. The peel is left on for 5 -15 minutes as per instructions.

Ingredients: Purified Water, Rose Floral Water, Lactic Acid, Glycerin, Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Sodium Hydroxide and Sodium Citrate.

Can be purchased at Bravura London

Spread honey all over my face? Yes, please!

Bees are awesome, they give us honey and beeswax and propolis and they make love to flowers (not really) which results in us having juicy fruit to eat. Clearly, bees are awesome.

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However, everyone will agree that honey is what bees are most famous for. Besides being delicious honey is also great for our skin thanks to its antibacterial properties and the fact it is chock full of antioxidants. Honey in skincare is one of my favourite ingredients due to fact it is antibacterial and thus great for acne prevention, it is rich in antioxidants which is great for anti-ageing and thanks to its incredible moisturising and soothing properties it brings this wonderful glow to your skin. Also, honey is clarifying which is good for unclogging pores. What a multitasker! 

Another amazing bee product is propolis. I remember being a sickly kid and my mom would make me drink this bitter drops that helped strengthen my immunity. That was propolis. Propolis or bee glue, as it is sometimes called, is antimicrobial, it is also an antioxidant and an emollient. It is used for its healing, antiseptic and restorative capabilities. In skincare it should help problematic skin by balancing, healing and soothing it and it also accelerates the rate of cell growth. Really,what is not to love? 

As you can see on the photo I have many products whose star ingredient is honey or propolis extract and I love them. If you want healthy, glowing skin give honey/propolis products a try. Models for the photo are some of my favourite skincare products:

Cosrx honey overnight mask - this is a sleeping pack that should be used as the last skincare step before going to bed. It contains contains 85% propolis extract and natural beeswax, so it will calm redness, soothe and moisturise. I think this is suitable for all skin types but especially for those with oily and irritated skin due to the fact it is really light and soothing.

Goodal Nature's Solution Firming Sleeping Pack - another sleeping pack (I have not tried it yet). It is sitting pretty in my cabinet waiting for its turn.

Banila co. Miss Flower and Mr Honey cream - This one smells divine and contains 42% of honey extract besides other lovely ingredients. Texture is like a light balm, feels a bit weird but spreads like a dream and sinks into skin leaving a satiny occlusive layer that keeps moisture locked in your skin without being sticky. I love it to pieces.You can find a mini review of it here on my instagram. 

Banila co. Miss Flower and Mr Honey Essence Oil - It contains collagen extract, niacinamide, honey extract, royal jelly and propolis extract, as well as bunch of flower extracts and seed extracts. It is an essence oil and that is how it feels like, a halfway between essence and oil. I use a drop of it before my cream step in the morning and evening and it makes my skin glowy and hydrated and it also smells like honey. ( I have a mini review of it at: my instagram)

Banila co. Miss Flower and Mr Honey essence stick - smells as gloriously as the cream, great  for use under eyes if you have especially dry and flakey under eyes and is very portable so perfect for people that travel a lot. 

I'm from honey mask - This is a wash-off mask that contains 37% of natural honey, so when you use it you are actually spreading honey all over your face. I don't know why this makes me so happy. It soothes, moisturises and evens out the tone of your skin while leaving it super soft.

Nuxe reve de miel lip balm (the one in the pot) - my favourite lip balm. It has both beeswax and honey among other ingredients. it is very nourishing and a thin layer of it under your lipstick does wonders in making your lipstick more comfortable. 

Tosowoong propolis sparkle ampoule - this contains a whopping 80% of propolis extract. it is amazingly moisturising and gives your skin that amazing Korean celebrities glow. 

Tosowoong pure propolis sheet mask - It smells like honey, moisturises skin and reduces redness and irritation. After use your skin is lovely and plump and evidently brighter. 

Battle of Cushions

My friend is thinking of buying a Missha cushion so I thought I would do this to help her decide. However I have not worn these for a while so I decided to test them on my face today to jog my memory. 

Both cushions are no.21 in colour and I was surprised to see myself looking slightly orange and then I remembered why I have not worn them for a while.  They are my summer cushions and are currently too dark for me. Oh well, I bronzed my neck and went about my day slightly orangey. The things I do for friends. 

I have applied on half of my face the regular version and on the other half the moisture version (the one on the photo with limited edition Betty Boop case) and this is what I garnered:

Missha M Magic Cushion (regular) - went on easy with a slight gray cast and looking very light almost whitish, this vanishes after a few minutes I guess it oxidises and turns to its normal colour. Finnish is semi-matte and sets rather fast. It has good medium coverage. On my normal skin staying power is rather good, with first wear and tear showing around the nose in 5 hours. People with dry and flaky skin might not like it as this formula might accentuate dry patches. When I compare it to my other cushions it is slightly heavy feeling on skin. 

Missha M Magic Cushion Moisture - This one blends a bit easier on the skin than the regular version. Goes on really light but settles into normal colour after few minutes. First on it is very glowy almost wet but after some time it turns into this natural skin glow unless powdered. It evens out my skin tone and has medium coverage (a smidge less coverage than regular version). It feels comfortable on the skin but unless powdered it will transfer if touched. Lasting time is some 4 hours before there is a need for a touch up. I personally like the regular version when the weather is hot and humid and moisture version when it is a bit colder and not humid. Both are solid products for the price and good starter cushions for someone wanting to give this form of makeup a go. 

Special thanks to my daughter for modeling the swatches as we are the same skin shade (I call her mini me for a reason) and I have not yet developed a skill of taking photo of my own hand.