I was talking acids with friends, as one does. So I decided to gather information on AHA in one place so they can be informed of the benefits of this amazing active. Use of AHA in cosmetics is not a new thing. We all have heard how Cleopatra liked to take baths in donkey milk. I bet that thing soured before you could blink an eye and she enjoyed the benefits of lactic acid, a type of AHA, that made her skin smoother, brighter and more youthful. So if Cleo reaped benefits of AHA so can we.
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| My AHA wardrobe |
Alpha hydroxy acids aka AHA are a group of
natural acids found in foods. Alpha hydroxy acids include:
- glycolic acid (found in sugar cane), most popular and widely used AHA as it has the smallest molecule and thus can penetrate deeper into skin
- lactic acid (found in sour milk)- great choice for people who find glycolic acid too harsh, as lactic acid is it gentler sister
- citric acid (found in citrus fruits)
- malic acid (found in apples)
- tartaric acid (found in grapes)
Various alpha hydroxy acids are applied to
the skin for their moisturizing and exfoliating properties, for treating acne
and improving the appearance of acne scars, for improving the appearance of
photo-aged skin, and firming and smoothing skin. They are used mainly as
chemical exfoliators but also as humectant moisturizers (AHAs attract water to
skin).
AHAs exfoliate the skin by promoting
keratolysis. Keratolysis is the process of breaking down the layer of dead skin
cells that make up the outer layer of the skin (stratum corneum,). Result is a
thinner layer of dead skin cells, which gives a brighter, younger-looking
appearance to the skin. However, with use of alpha hydroxy acid product, you
make your skin more vulnerable to damage from the sun (by removing the top
layer of dead skin cells). That is why if you use an AHA product, you should
use a high-quality sunscreen to protect your skin from the sun as AHA
products can increase your sensitivity to the sun by as much as 50% and AHA
has photosensitivity effects for up to a week (according to research for 10%
AHA product). So the time of day you use your AHA really makes no
difference. I cannot stress enough how important is the sunscreen when using
AHAs (BHA, vitamin c and retinoids too). What is the point of fighting sun
damage and ageing signs with AHA if you are just going to leave your skin more vulnerable
to sun damage by skipping SPF. If you cannot commit yourself to regular and
avid use of sunscreen than AHAs are not for you.
AHA is a pH sensitive product which means
that it is more effective in an acidic product with a low pH. The higher the
pH, the less effective it is. Chemical exfoliants work best at a low pH, with
the recommended range for USA between 3 and about 4.5.
So to break it down how
should you use your AHA:
Apply after cleansing your skin with low pH
cleanser or use an acidic toner to lower your skin pH. Why? As stated, AHAs are
pH depended and they will work better in acidic environment, meaning if your
skin is on acidic side instead of alkaline side of things AHA will have more
time to exfoliate and do its thing instead of wasting that time to lower your
skin pH. Once applied it takes about 30 minutes for its pH to neutralize after which
it becomes ineffective. It is recommended to wait for 20-30 minutes after
applying AHA to apply another, higher-pH product. Common sense tells you if we
apply a higher pH product immediately after a chemical exfoliant we will likely
shorten its effective time thus giving us lesser results.
If you’ve never used AHA before or if you have
sensitive skin, introduce it to your skincare routine slowly. Use it once a day
every three days for a couple of weeks and then go to every other day for a
couple of weeks before you move to daily use (if you wish and if your skin can
take it). Overuse can result in irritated
or over exfoliated skin (skin will look shiny, sudden breakouts that last for
more than two weeks, red, reactive, itchy, burning skin). If this happens
reduce the frequency of use or even stop for a bit and use gentle products to
rebuild your damaged skin’s barrier.
My AHA wardrobe depicted in the photo:
ALPHA-H Liquid Gold – My first ever AHA product. It contains 5%
glycolic acid and Licorice Extract with pH of 2.5. Although it has the smallest
percentage of glycolic acid of all my products it also has the lowest pH which
means this packs quite a punch.
Ingredients: Aqua, Alcohol Denat., Glycerin, Hydrolysed Silk, Glycolic Acid, Potassium
Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Extract.
Instructions state that it can be used every other day and the best
way to use it is to apply it on cleansed skin and leave it to do its thing
until morning. It is perfect for those days when you feel lazy and do not want
to do your 10+ steps night routine. I like to use it when my skin is being a bit
of a bitch aka hormonal. It is easy to use but rather pricey and formula
contains alcohol which does not bother me but might bother those with alcohol
sensitivity.
Can be purchased at cult beauty, beauty bay, lookfantastic and other stockists.
COSRX AHA 7 Whitehead Power Liquid – Korean product with 7% of
glycolic acid, with official pH level of 4, however my pH strips show its level
to be a bit above pH 3. Very affordable.
Ingredients: Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Water, Butylene Glycol,
Glycolic Acid, Niacinamide, Sodium Hydroxide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Panthenol, Sodium
Hyaluronate, Xanthan Gum, Ethyl Hexanediol
Use it after cleansing or after acidic toner and wait 20-30 minutes
before applying anything else. Can be purchased at Korean beauty shops Jolse and Wishtrend
Bravura London GLYCOLIC ACID 10% (INFUSED WITH LAVENDER) – affordable
but effective product with pH of 3, and easy to order online if you live in
Europe. It can be used 3-4 times a week. It is a chemical peal and should be
left on the skin 5-15 minutes as per instructions.
Ingredients: Distilled Water, Lavender
Water, Glycolic Acid, Glycerin, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Hydroxide, Hydroxyethyl
Cellulose.
Can be purchased at Bravura London
Bravura London 10% LACTIC ACID (INFUSED WITH ROSE) –affordable milder
exfoliator than glycolic acid one, it has pH of 3.75. This is a good choice if
you suffer with dry or dehydrated skin. The peel is left on for 5 -15 minutes as
per instructions.
Ingredients: Purified Water, Rose Floral Water, Lactic Acid,
Glycerin, Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Sodium Hydroxide and Sodium Citrate.
Can be purchased at Bravura London
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